The Claw if Pizza Planet was broke
Originally a cheap manual pick and place machine, turned into "this is already halfway to a 3D printer so I'm just gonna make this a 3D printer/PNP machine/laser engraver all in one" Goals are wireless control, USB camera(s), Ender-3 compatibility for the PNP bits (so the same/very similar hardware can be used to convert an Ender-3 into a PNP machine), high precision, and of course as low cost as possible while remaining high precision and fairly reliable. Also physical joystick controls are way cooler so gonna see if I can reasonably add that. And this is practically a DIY 3D printer already so gonna try to ensure it can be modified to be a printer, laser engraver, etc
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autumn
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autumn
added to the journal ago
Just a quick note
Just figured I should probably say Ender-3 compatibility is now less a concern - I'd like to go with a rail system more like this instead. Should be easy enough to modify the PNP model to mount on an Ender-3 - my only concern really is electrical compatibility for the vacuum bits.
autumn
added to the journal ago
Researched components and frames
Researched quite a bit regarding different components, different sizes, and different styles of printers. I'm currently looking to make this a CoreXY-style printer with a 500x500x500-ish mm bed (mainly so it can fit large keyboards - particularly for pick and place and printing cases without splitting them into multiple parts)
The only real issue is huge beds are very difficult to find for a reasonable price. I've found are a heated bed for $90, and currently the best options for a magnetic bed are magnetic sheet(s) with adhesive for $30-50, and an actual build plate for another $50. I also found a ~$20-40 FR4 sheet (depending on thickness) - I'd much prefer magnetic so that 1) I can magnet stuff down to the bed when doing PNP, and 2) I don't have to worry about breaking a huge fiberglass panel lol, but given the cost it's not seeming very practical. Will see what's in the budget and what I can get away with towards the end though.
Also I've settled on most likely using the DRV8825 to drive the motors - it's fairly cheap, has a simple STEP/DIR interface, and is easier to solder than something like the A4988. If I need to handle more current I'll switch to an 8425 or 8424 instead.
autumn
started The Claw if Pizza Planet was broke ago