Added grilled Intakes

i fixed the enclosure model and instead of having 4 ugly ahh holes on each side like these:

i added grills!

these will increase the airflow into the camera and also decrease the fan sound because it would need less power to pull in air.

i was thinking of using a peltier cooler inside for the sensor but it would just form water vapour around it, not to mention its already humid here.

i sliced the body and exported it

Dust cap

I created a dust cap for the camera too which will fit in the nozzle.

This will protect the camera sensor from dust. I also looked at proper commercial cameras and I saw that they had a glass on the front of the camera sensor coated with a 820nm filter 💔🥀

TS frying me I may need additional stuff, I'll leave a note and then resubmit it in the future if I need grants for any more stuff :]

Note for Reviewers

I added the working on how each part will work on the readme. And yes, a raspberry pi is required because astronomy cameras need heavy image processing with gigabits of data processing each second because of the immense amount of visual data collected, but to keep it budget friendly I used raspberry pi zero 2W.

Added BOM.csv on GitHub

Reviewer NOTES

I added the working on how each part will work on the readme. And yes, a raspberry pi is required because astronomy cameras need heavy image processing with gigabits of data processing each second because of the immense amount of visual data collected, but to keep it budget friendly I used raspberry pi zero 2W.

Split the parts

I split the parts into 4 seperate files for easier and reliable printing. I will upload the files on GitHub Soon.

Material:

I'll chose black ABS plastic with 100% infill because I need minimal lite leakage into the camera body.

Placeholder image

Added support for the 3d prints

I added support for the 3d prints because I didn't realise they needed one. Thankgod Gemini caught the mistake. I love you Gemini

Final Support:

Lets see what they say about the funding (cart price is increasing day by day)

3D Model Update

i updated the 3d model to bevel the edges of the wider body and also added support for a M28.5 X 6.0 Filter for better image captures.

also i seperated the back ring and the plate for easier printing and access.

im going to build supports now, thankfully gpt told me to add those cuz i never knew they needed to be added until i thought about stringing and all that.

Calculating Camera focal length

We'll now calculate the total focal length of the camera to see how much natural magnification we can get from it.

Using the top 1.25" adapter nozzle that'll go into the eyepiece focuser, it measures to be exactly 20mm, adding the tickness of the base underneath, 10mm, with camera tray median depth of approx 5/2
= 2.5mm

We'll add some human error of 1.5± to it, total focal length is:

20+10+2.5 = 32.5mm ± 1.5

Keeping the eyepiece focal length in mind, my telescope has a focal length of 750mm

Magnification (M) = Telescope Focal Length / Eyepiece Focal Length

M = 750mm / 34 (we'll chose the largest focal length to minimize over promising

M = 22.05 ≈22.1x

Now that is our Optical magnification, don't forget we can zoom in digitally too :D

Zooming digitally will boost our magnification by:

2x Digital : 44.2x Total
4x Digital : 88.4x Total
6x Digital : 132.6x Total

And so on.

Now if we plot a graph on it, (just to be a performative 💔🥀)

It turns out to become a linear magnification graph.

And that will be our Telescope magnification range. Keeps in mind at higher magnification the image quality will become worse, so at nearly 2-5x magnification will be enough for deep space photography, while 1.5-2 for planetary with high shutter speeds.

Applying for Funding

i created the enclosure and the models. now i need funding for it. in total the Designing of the enclosure took me HELL OF A TIME (10 Hours)

my first time making a 3d model myself after the hackpad :)

im pretty happy with it.
ill get it printed with black PETG in order to minimize light leakage into the camera

now the difficult part starts with the hardware after im done getting the grant because ill have to code so i can connect the camera via OTG to my laptop with SharpCap so i can see a live preview.

ill upload the code for the camera after im done experimenting with the camera because i cant code without physically iterating with the components.

Camera Case

i created the full enclosure for the camera and the onboard computer with Active cooling.

here are the pictures:

Back plate :

Side profile:

Top:

rest the camera tray, i already added a journal entry for it.

Created the Sensor holder plate

modeled the sensor holder plate. added some vents on the back for air ventilation as ill be using active cooling for it. it can get very hot especially during long exposures because we need the sensor to collect as much light as possible.

orbit view:

top:

the small slit on the side of the holder is for the FPC cable.

Research and Sensor size feasability

so i was trying to find the best sensor for this project, as astrophotography needs a large sensor size camera with minimum amp glow and IR cut sensors to recieve data pm the IR spectrum, and the best sensor i found was the Sony IMX 290 as it has an IR filter with solenoid, meaning i can directly control the filter changing and all that.

i was first trying to find a raw camera sensor chip, but those are too hard to find + they require both side smd soldering, which is impossible for me as im not good at soldering let alone SMD.

so this is the sensor i chose

I decided to pair it with a Raspberry PI zero 2W as the onboard computer.

I wont be using the inbuilt camera lens as i want the raw sensor only. i have a dobsonion telescope to which i can attach the camera to.