1/21/2026 - Starting - Generating the 3D model

To begin I had to get a 3D model of the Grand Canyon then my plan was to put this into slicer for fusion to generate the templates that I will then cut. I went on google and found a website ( I've now lost it but I will see if I can find it sorry ) and that gave me this 3D model:

This place is this: Region (lat/lon):
36.11201984939281 -112.04981568043671 (top right)
36.08611719526355 -112.20691087429961 (bottom left)
center at [-112.12836327736815, 36.09906852232818], UTM12N, EPSG:32612
lon/lat size in degrees: [0.15709519386290083, 0.025902654129261293]

Which information means very little to me but I based the mad on an interesting section of river and the visitor center is located on this map (I think). The website also gave me this: Which I think is fascinating.

Perhaps, if I have time I will try to put this information on a plaque that can go infront of the product. This took me about and hour overall, finding the site and then getting a decent box which would fit well on the slats I have and it is late so I will work out how to use slicer for fusion tomorrow.

1/22/2026 4 PM - Making the template

Next I set about making the template and to do this I used "Slicer for fusion360" which is an old program and it really looks it too. I haven't used it before but thankfully in the end it worked.

I uploaded the model into the software and started configuring the settings. I scaled the model up to be large enough to have visible details and contour lines but it needed to be small enough to fit on the 3mm plywood sheets that I have so that I'm not doubling up parts across multiple sheets widthways. The Sheets that I am using are 224mm by 240mm and so it will be important that I get these the correct way around.

Translating this information into the program proved difficult with it crashing multiple times and freezing so I have decided to leave the page size as simply A4 and besides I figured this May help with the printing.

The software also provides video animation instructions be honestly all the parts are numbered and it doesn't look too complex.

I then printed off the parts and cut them out, this took about 1.5 hours on its own because there were soooooooo many of them.

After this I traced them onto the wooden panels which was difficult specifically for the larger panels as they ended up spanning 2 sheets. A surprising, at least to me, amount of thought went into the layout of the parts as I also had to make sure that these were possible to cut on a bandsaw as this is what I have access to.

1/22/2026 11 PM - Starting the real thing

To start out I began by just rough cutting most of the parts to get them on their own - aside from some of the tiny parts because, as I mentioned previously, I will be cutting on the band saw and I need all the grip area on those parts I can get.

After this I just planned on cutting all the parts - obviously I knew it would take a while - but then putting it together after in 2 discrete, independent steps. Yeah that didn't happen.

I promptly got worn out after a reasonable pile of cutting (~1hr) and realised I couldn't start yet cause the bottom parts weren't cut.

I then decided to just take it a layer at a time because it would be more friendly to my enjoyment of many smaller, variety tasks in the shed. The bottom two layers were then cut and glued together. (~1.5hrs)
Before cutting the next layer up. After the cutting, the lower layer was dry and so got sanded before this layer was glued and fillered which somehow took an hour and a half due to the clamping and weird shapes.

This overall went well but I am now left with an odd pile of unsorted - but cut - parts on the table.

1/23/2026 4 PM - More Layers

Completed another 3 layers and honestly it takes sooooooo long per layer with all the cutting.

My current process:

1. Cut the parts out on the bandsaw starting with rough cuts and then moving on the the detailed cuts.
2. I then sand the outer edges with a sanding drum with my Dremel to remove the roughness and any chipping.
3. I then sand any smaller sections with the stone bit with goes into a point and so it can fit into tighter gaps.
4. I then layout the parts on top of the lower layer to check fitment.
5. I sand the filler and numbers off the lower layer as that will now be dried.
6. Apply glue to each part and then clamp one at a time.
7. Remove excess glue before it dries.

And somehow this takes about and hour and a half per layer, but at least it is fun and I am super motivated on this project right now.

Sorry this is a long (time wise) entry. Hopefully the layers will get faster over time.

1/23/2026 11 PM - More More Layers

3 more layers done YAY!

Honestly this is the exact same steps as last time and took roughly the same amount of time too - can't believe it takes ages.

Hopefully the next layers will be faster with the parts being smaller. These few layers were really detailed so perhaps I am getting faster. I also have a brick now which I'm using as like a wide clamp so yay me.

Also I wont have to do as much fillering with the upper layers as the parts weren't split up across boards.

1/24/2026 1 PM - More More More Layers

Managed to do another 2 layers this morning and I am really enjoying the process.

I have realised that I have under 2 weeks to finish this now as it must be done for early Feb so I need to get on so that the finish and resin have time to dry.

Unfortunately, while the time taken to filler has been removed the smaller parts take longer to cut as I have to not lose my fingers and the clamping takes longer to set up.

1/24/2026 10 PM - More More More More Layers

I've finished the last couple of layers!!!!

The last few took less time per layer as the number of parts per layer decreased which was great and it was just the same process as explained earlier.

Next I need to sort out the sides because they are horribly wonky and very uneven and then onto the plaque, finish, and epoxy.

1/25/2026 11 AM - The Sides

After finishing the layers a realised that the sides were not straight, at right angles and were wobbly. As I am gifting this I need to fix this and to be honest even if I wasn't I would probably include this step as the edges look awful right now.

The process to sort these issues was to use a hand plane and try to slowly carve up the sides until they are flat and slightly reprofiled to be nearer right angles. This took about 45 minutes per long side and then about 30 minutes per short side so not too bad. I also had to reglue one of the mountain sections as I knocked it off. whoops.

I am currently thinking about adding some sort of frame to ground the product but I am not sure currently and in the meantime I will design the 3D printed plaque.

1/25/2026 3 PM - Designing a plaque

To design the plaque I decided to use Fusion 360 as that is the 3D modeling software I have used a couple of times already. I started by creating the writing section on a little backing:

After this I designed the part that will be connected to the side of the sculpture with space for two screws to attach it. Above this is the connecting part which will allow for the actual plaque to connecct and then pivot.
After designing the final part it was done and I sent it to print.

1/25/2026 10:03 PM - Framing the sculpture

I decided the sides of the sculpture looked a bit unfinished and so I started adding a frame. I used the same 3mm ply to cut 23mm strips before sanding the edges, painting them black and then gluing them on the sides.

When cutting I made sure to cut quickly to aim to reduce chip breakout on the back of the cut and this helped reduce the time used for the sanding. I also ended up rewatching the whole of James Bond: Casino Royal while doing this set which was great.

After doing this framing I decided to paint the bottom because despite no-one seeing it regularly I think it really adds to the professionalism.

1/25/2026 10:44 PM - Forgot to render the plaque

Here is a lovely render of the plaque, gave me to opportunity to learn a little about fusion rendering:

It is modelled for printing and depending on the printer requires little to no supports

1/26/2026 7 AM - Researching Finishes

I have researched finishes using both the internet and my product design books and here is what I have discovered - shorrterned into bullet points:

Lindseed Oil

Advantages:

-Penetrates deeply into wood fibers
-Enhances natural wood appearance
-Easy to apply without specialized tools

Disadvantages:

-Does not fill gaps or create a waterproof film
-Long curing time before epoxy application
-Can interfere with epoxy bonding if not fully cured

Polyurethane

Advantages:

-Creates a durable, waterproof plastic-like barrier
-Penetrates slightly while still building a sealing film
-More flexible than varnish, reducing cracking

Disadvantages:

-Multiple coats required for full sealing
-Long curing time before epoxy application

Beeswax

Advantages:

-Easy to apply and completely natural
-Smells lovely
-Good for temporary moisture resistance

Disadvantages:

-Does not seal gaps or pores effectively
-Softens with heat and wears off easily

Varnish

Advantages:

-Forms a hard, continuous film that seals pores and small gaps well
-Good water resistance (especially marine-grade varnish)
-Widely avaikable and relatively easy to apply in layers

Disadvantages:

-Can crack over time if the wood moves
-Requires multiple coats and long cure times

For my use I think I will aim to use polyurethane but if I cannot source this I will use the cheapest varnish I can.

Behold: my tome of knowledge:

1/26/2026 9 PM - Resin colour tests

In the mean time I decided to do some resin colour tests where I mixed up some resin and added a small amount into these coin moulds and then added different dyes and alcohol inks.

The best one was the alcohol ink which was blue and shimmered slightly so I think it will provide amazing contrast compared to the rest of the product. The test part doesn't look too good as the colour wasn't fully mixed in but because the coin mould was so shallow I didn't want to risk any spillage.

1/27/2026 8 AM - 3D printed plaque

I have now 3D printed the front plaque:

This print came out fine and after a little sanding, filler primer and paint I was ready for a test fit. Unfortunately, The tolerances were much too tight and so I had to re-model, re-print, re-sand, re-prime, and re-paint the two connecting parts with better sized mechanical linkages.

I also added some paint to make the lettering feel ornate and fancy.

1/27/2026 1 PM - Modeling a stand ready for the finishing

I have discussed with the design Technician at my school about using Varnish and Epoxy together and he recommended doing tests first to ensure that the epoxy fully cures and so I will have to do this next.

In the mean time I have designed and printed 4 little stands to hold the product up off the table while I apply the varnish and static tested them in fusion 360 to ensure that they hold the correct weight. It was very fascinating learning about the stress testing in fusion and I would love to do it again for another project in the future.

1/28/2026 - Testing the Varnish

As was mentioned in my previous post I discussed with the DT Technician at my school and he let me know about the importance of doing tests and how it really could all go wrong on the last test.

Due to this I will be testing the varnish and Epoxy bond with some test parts to check the products are compatible and mostly that the epoxy will still cure if in contact with the varnish. If it doesn't, it isn't the end of the world I will probably just use UV epoxy in a thin coat and then pour the dyed stuff on top or but PVA - wont look too amazing - in a thin coat in between but I'm gaslighting myself into hoping it will work.

After a quick trip to B&Q, I now have the varnish I will use - a lovely medium oak tint which should look nice and compliment the ply....?

To test I set up a small piece and applied the finish as directed, 1 coat on one side and 2 on the other. I also decided to add a 3rd coat section just to be sure.

After this I will next apply the 2 part epoxy over the center across both the layer sections and then also test UV expoxy just in case it comes to it.

1/29/2026 12:07 AM - Testing the Varnish x Resin

I next needed to test that the varnish and resin would successfully mix together. This test will allow me to ensure that the resin in direct contact with the varnish will still cure as it would be problematic if I came this far for it to not work now.

To test this I simply pre-heated the 2 parts of resin (It is so cold in the UK right now and it definietly doesn't help I am doing this outside).

While it slowly heated I added walls to the varnish tests that I previously completed and tested the UV resin adhesion/cure success at it worked perfectly, so I have high hopes. (this is the weird smudge looking thing to the left in the image)

After this I mixed equal parts A and B, mixed some more, mixed a bit extra and then added the dye - bonus points as this is a second test of the final colour. I poured this into the small well I had made. After it had sat for about 15 minutes I used a heat gun to remove any bubbles.

I also added a control blob (Just off the image unfortunately) which will allow me to gauge if the resin has not cured due to time/mixing error or due to the finish. Best case scenario is both are cure by this time tomorrow.

1/29/2026 12:15 AM - Stamping

While the resin cured on my test piece I decided to make use of the wax seal that I got for Christmas and almost "stamp" the product.

Unfortunately, I have never used a wax seal before so I looked online for any tips and tricks and after about 45min I determined that No, there are no tricks really. I think you are supposed to use a tea light and no a hot air gun so perhaps I did it wrong but it seemed to work reasonably well.

To start I did some tests on scrap:

After this I did another test on some offcuts of the frame that I used and painted. I don't have any photos of this unfortunately as I then ripped it up to determine the adhesion and wax volume needed.

Finally, I melted the wax and applied it in this saturn shape with the rings to encourage the wax to spill out sideways rather than upwards:

The seal was them applied:

Which left me with this beautiful seal on the side:

1/29/2026 11 PM - Applying the finish

Before applying the finish I got the resin and finish test piece and cut it in half on the bandsaw to test that it had cured all the way through and thankfully it had.
What I also noticed on the test piece was that to finish stopped the resin soaking into the plywood where it had on the non finished walls.

Before the finishing I added another coat of black paint to improve the durability and overall quality of the aesthetics.

After this I applied the finish onto the final product. This proved to take a while with me only getting about a 3rd of the way in 30 mins:

And 30 mins later I was about 2 3rds done:

Next, I did the last bit and the edges. Making sure all the river bed section was fully done and the seams were filled in.

After this, I did a second coat as that looked great in the tests and was recommended on the tin.

1/30/2026 - Resin Time

Before starting to pour the resin I had a couple of jobs first, I spent about 30 minutes checking the sided of all the layers to ensure I had complete coverage on the plywood and I am glad I did as there were multiple clumps on the short edge facing side that I had clearing overlooked due to the orientation on the table.

Once done, I used UV resin to block some of the worrying gaps between the bottom two layers as I was worried that the epoxy would flow between these layers and escape the river section where I needed it.

After this I filled the two layers with plastic pellets to effectively measure the volume of resin needed.

At this point placed the resin bottles on the radiator to gently heat them - don't know if this is overly recommended - before mixing up the batch and adding the dye,

After this I then poured the resin in being very careful to not spill onto other sections and trying to reduce bubbles. This was much more difficult than I though but I managed. Finally I added cling film over (But with a gap so no contact with) the resin to prevent dust - or my impatient fingers - from touching the curing resin. I also made sure to have a small extra piece of resin and a small silicon mould which I can use to test the resin is cured without touching the final piece if it is not cured.

• Haven't included this in the final time tally but in full transparency I did then sit and watch it for like an hour as I was worried it would leak somewhere but I think it is ok
  

1/31/2026 - Done!!!!

This morning I removed the cling film and gave the resin a check before applying some varnish to the underside but now the project is done!!!!!

I am so happy with how the project turned out and look forward to doing more projects with Hackclub.

2/2/2026 - Re-submitting

Thank you for the time taken to review my project but I am a bit unsure how this isn't a hardware project, it has 3D printing, stock hardware and yes woodworking but both of those create hardware and no where in the Blueprint FAQ does an distinction exist.

I have also used 3D modeling and multiple tools such as this inline with all other approved projects. I'm really sorry, I just don't understand where I have failed to meet the blueprint project requirements with this project. I understand that it is a bit unique but as are most complex projects on blueprint

I completely understand that you might want to adjust the FAQ and rules but given that I have fully made the project and therefore it is not costing blueprint anything along with the fact that it was made before this rule change please can it be judged on the current requirements for a project that it meets and I understand now that you prefer for people to not use wooden parts in their projects and I apologise for this and know for next time. :]

This also feels almost personal to me with denying the project considering the other projects that are allowed such as like a pen pot or something similar and how much work has been put in with my readme having a published instructables added. Comparatively the Linux-wood project of the same tier seems to have limited complexity and is also a woodworking project, showing how woodworking can be considered hardware. Apologies for the rant, I understand if when you get my to resubmit I had to submitted at a different tier, I have re-submit at tier 4 as I believe this matches the guidelines well in comparison with the pen pots and 3D printed trinkets but equally was more difficult than a hackpad.

2/17/2026 - Re-submitting pt.2 lol

Been told to resubmit:

RE-SUBMITTING..............................................................................................................Sorry